TASTING DINNER AT ROSEWARNE MANOR
Rosewarne Manor is a restaurant and function venue near Hayle, run by Cyril, Gill and Colin Eustice. Head chef Phil Thomas leads the award-winning kitchen; accolades include two AA rosettes and Taste of the West Gold.
We decided to try out Rosewarne’s monthly tasting dinner, which is held on the last Thursday of each month. Having heard great things about Phil’s cooking, we were looking forward to the eight course extravaganza.
1. Artisan breads ~ flavoured butters
The warm crusty white herb roll and slices of treacle bread were delicious, served with swirls of soft nut brown butter and fennel pesto butter.
2. Artichoke ~ shallot ~ wild garlic
This was a cup-a-soup with a difference: a savoury, thick and creamy Jerusalem artichoke velouté, finished with a swirl of wild garlic pesto.
The garnish accompanying the velouté was a work of art.
The thin artichoke crisp was topped with shallot gel, shallot rings, pretty wild garlic flowers and deep fried wild garlic.
It was crispy and sweet and would make the most amazing canapé for a spring wedding.
3. Cashell Blue cheese ~ apple ~ granola ~ almond
Another beautiful dish.
The Cashell Blue cheese (from Tipperary in Ireland) mousse was encased in apple gel, with burnt apple purée, almond granola and Greek yogurt.
The mousse was perfectly smooth, and alongside the sharpness of the apple and sweetness of the chunks of granola, the flavour combination was sublime.
4. Monkfish ~ brassicas ~ clams ~ lemon
The succulent roast monkfish (from Wild Harbour on the south coast) was rolled in roasted broccoli powder.
It was served with clams, pickled broccoli stalks, savoy cabbage, red cabbage purée, creamed potato and lemon oil.
It was one of those dishes where you needed a little bit of everything in each mouthful – the pickled broccoli pulled all the flavours together.
5. Lamb three ways ~ peas ~ mint
For the main course we were served a perfectly pink, generous slice of tender lamb loin, with soft and savoury confit of shoulder of lamb, and a slice of rolled, slow cooked, crispy-skinned breast of lamb.
The trio of lamb was accompanied by a gorgeously green pea and mint mousse, pea shoots, sugar snap peas, baby carrots and a rich jus.
6. Chocolate egg ~ cookies
It must have taken hours to prepare the delicate egg shells, which were balanced on a bed of cocoa nibs. (I overheard fellow diners complaining that the nibs and shell were a bit crunchy…what can you say?)
The egg shells were filled with a rich chocolate mousse, topped with super salted caramel sauce and a hazelnut and almond espuma, and served with a crispy, delicate biscuit “soldier”.
7. Carrot cake ~ black olive ~ pistachio
A slice of traditional carrot cake is an unusual fine dining dessert, but it worked really well with the shard of carrot “glass”, sweet cubes of carrot and carrot gel, cream cheese icing and pistachios.
The black olive sorbet created a Marmite moment. I loved it – for both quirkiness and flavour – and thought it went perfectly with the cream cheese, but others were less keen.
8. Coffee ~ artisan chocolates
Phil has recently started experimenting with chocolate tempering, and his handmade chocolates were stunning.
The classic truffle, coated with cocoa powder, was soft and unctuous, and the pistachio truffle contained a layer of gorgeous pistachio-y marzipan upon smooth dark chocolate.
My favourite was the tarragon and mustard truffle, so subtle, with a hint of ginger.
The Rosewarne Suite
There is a self-contained studio apartment at the manor – the Rosewarne Suite – where we were lucky enough to spend the night.
It’s ideal for mid-week getaways, or for wedding guest accommodation.
The neatly appointed apartment contains a smart fitted kitchen, dining area, shower room, sofa and TV, plus comfy king-size bed.
While we were dining in the restaurant a continental breakfast (pastries, cheese, cold meat, fruit, orange juice, fresh milk and cereal) was left in our room ready for the morning.
Thank you to Cyril and Gill for putting us up in the Rosewarne Suite, and to Phil and team for fabulous food.
The tasting menu costs £45 per person; our bill for two people, including drinks, was £120. The next tasting dinner will be held on Thursday 28 May. For reservations phone 012009 610414.
Rosewarne Manor, Gwinear Road, Connor Downs, Hayle, TR27 5JQ
Telephone: 01209 610414 | Email: [email protected]
For more information visit www.rosewarnemanor.co.uk.