DINNER AT ZACRY’S
It opened in March 2014 and serves a combination of modern and classic dishes, with Cornish ingredients and inspiration from across the world. Contemporary American cuisine features strongly, a favourite of executive chef Neil Haydock.
The seasonal menus rely on good local produce and flavours are gutsy thanks to the indoor charcoal oven.
The decor is smart and modern, but relaxed and comfortable. The zinc topped tables are gorgeous, as is the herringbone tiled black and white floor.
By day the restaurant is bright and lively; by night the lighting is low and the atmosphere is very grown up. Staff are smart; service is friendly and professional, and there is a buzz from the open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work.
I have to confess that I was very much “off duty” when we ate at Zacry’s last weekend, and hadn’t intended to write a piece for the blog, or take any photos. But as the meal just got better and better I couldn’t help myself. To my friends’ dismay, out came my iPhone and nobody was allowed to start eating until I’d taken pictures.
So here is a very quick review of a fantastic evening.
I started with a salad of chunks of succulent char-grilled octopus, served on a bed of fennel and rocket, with a zingy Asian pesto and topped with sweet pea shoots.
The heritage tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil pesto salad went down well with friends, as did the chicken liver parfait with rhubarb chutney and toasted brioche.
The pan-fried brill I chose for the main course was stunning, crisp-edged but moist within.
It lay on a heap of white beans, lardons of Cornish sweetheart bacon and peas, and a generous helping of rich, salty butter sauce. I ended up finishing it off with a spoon, not wanting to waste a drop.
I didn’t have this steak, but it was definitely worthy of a photo. The Fiorentina steak for two is a permanent fixture on the Zacry’s menu, thank goodness.
The melt-in-the-mouth meat was accompanied by perfect triple-cooked chips, green beans and Marmite hollandaise. So good.
A dessert menu can sometimes seem like an afterthought, but not so at Zacry’s. My chocolate and peanut butter tart with salted caramel ice cream was a heavenly combination.
Others oohed and ahhed over mini doughnuts with frozen banana parfait and salted caramel sauce.
Restaurants in hotels often feel like a dining room for residents, for that is what they are primarily. But although Zacry’s is located in a hotel, it stands out as a restaurant in its own right, and I highly recommend a visit.
Zacry’s is open seven days a week for dinner, from 6.30 to 9.30pm. A two course menu costs £29.50 and three courses are £36.50. See the sample menu.