DINNER AT THE DRIFTWOOD
The Driftwood Hotel is tucked away on the Roseland Peninsula, and is a haven of tranquility from the moment you walk through the door.
Decor is calm, with themes of blue and white, muted colours and beautiful paintings, driftwood sculptures and a relaxed atmosphere.
It has the feeling that you are staying in a friend’s (very big and very lovely) comfortable home.
When I visited last month I was meeting my parents for dinner, and headed out with no intention of writing a blog. However, this meal was breathtakingly good, and I can’t bear not to share it with you. Where I’m not specific about ingredients, it’s because I didn’t write anything down.
The restaurant is run by head chef Chris Eden, and has been the well-deserved holder of a Michelin star since 2011.
When we arrived, we collapsed onto the huge, soft sofas in the lounge, enjoying the widereaching sea views with a glass of rosé in hand. Our first treat was a board of exquisite canapés. Savoury choux pastry, squid ink crackers, goats cheese and confit pork were involved. I was in canapé heaven.
We then moved to our table, simply laid with a crisp white linen table cloth and smart cutlery. We were brought warm bread and quenelles of whipped butter, one of which was goats’ butter, something I’d not tried before, and it was delicious.
My starter was served on a scallop shell – hand dived scallops with asparagus, sea shore vegetables, English wasabi, coral powder and pretty blue borage flowers. This was fresh and simple, with tastes of the sea.
Between our starter and main course came a little bowl of super smooth and rich velouté with a succulent chunk of fresh fish in the bottom, topped with incredible puffed fish skin.
Head chef Chris Eden knew we were coming, and as a surprise gave us a special extra course. What a treat! Fresh Cornish asparagus and truffle with Mrs Middleton’s rapeseed oil – from our family farm. Thank you Chris.
My main course was utterly beautiful. How anyone can make a lamb dish look so pretty is beyond me. The Dartmoor lamb loin was pink, tender and cooked to perfection; the “sausage roll” was moist and juicy with fine, crispy pastry.
So many flavours were on this plate – feta, black garlic, candied pinenuts, gem lettuce, courgette, olives and tomatoes as well as the rich lamb – and every mouthful was a taste sensation.
A fresh and fruity little amuse bouche came next, a proper palate cleanser.
Now I can only apologise for scoffing my pudding without taking a photo of the inside. Deceptively simple looking, the “Driftwood Chocolate Bar” had layers of varying textures and flavours of chocolate, with salted peanut, honeycomb and a milk sorbet. Chris Eden took two years to develop this dish, and it took me less than two minutes to eat it.
This was a truly memorable meal, and I can highly recommend checking into The Driftwood for a meal, a night, a weekend, a week….
For more information visit www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk.
Driftwood Hotel, Rosevine, Portscatho, Cornwall, TR2 5EW | Tel: 01872 580644